Split the fault first: is the machine completely dead, or does it hum or click without the drum turning? A dead dryer is a power problem — socket, plug, breaker, or a specific quirk of dryer wiring worth checking on electric models. A dryer that hums or makes an effort but does not tumble has power reaching the motor but something downstream — usually the door switch or a belt — stopping it.
Dead, or humming without tumbling?
- Completely dead — no lights, no display, no sound at all when you press start.
- Humming without tumbling — you hear the motor attempt to run, or a faint click, but the drum does not move.
This distinction matters because it separates a power supply problem from a mechanical one, and they are fixed in completely different places.
If the dryer is completely dead
Unplug the dryer before checking the plug, cable or the outlet. Do not plug it back in if you see scorching or melted plastic — that needs an electrician.
- Test the outlet
Plug in a lamp or phone charger to confirm the socket itself is live.
- Check the breaker — both halves on an electric dryer
Electric dryers in most homes run on 240 V through a double-pole breaker. One half can trip while the other stays on, which produces a dryer that appears completely dead, or one that runs the drum but never heats. Switch the breaker fully off and back on rather than glancing at it.
- Confirm the door is fully closed
Some models show no sign of life at all with the door open or not fully latched, which can look identical to a power fault.
- Check for a stuck start button or control lock
A jammed button or an accidentally enabled control lock will stop the machine responding even with power present. Look for a lock icon on the display.
If it hums but the drum does not turn
- Listen closely
A continuous hum with no tumbling and no smell usually means the motor is receiving power but cannot turn the drum — most often because the drive belt has snapped. A single click followed by silence more often points at the door switch or the start relay.
- Check the door switch
Open and firmly close the door several times, listening and feeling for a positive click. A worn or misaligned door switch can report the door as open even when it is shut, which stops the cycle from ever truly beginning.
- Check for an overheated motor
If the dryer ran recently and then stopped, its motor thermal overload may have tripped from working too hard — often because of a restricted vent making the whole system labour. Let it cool for an hour and try again. If it repeats, clear the vent before assuming the motor has failed; our {NOHEAT} covers the vent check in detail.
- Try turning the drum by hand
With the machine unplugged, reach in and turn the drum. If it spins with no resistance at all, the belt has likely broken. If it is stiff, gritty or will not turn, a bearing or roller may have seized.
Common causes
| Cause | How likely | Which symptom |
|---|---|---|
| Tripped breaker (often just one leg) | Very common | Completely dead, or runs with no heat |
| Door not fully closed or switch misaligned | Very common | Dead or hums, will not begin cycle |
| Broken drive belt | Common | Motor hums, drum spins freely by hand |
| Motor thermal overload tripped | Common | Stopped mid-cycle, silent until it cools |
| Start switch or button failure | Occasional | No response to pressing start |
| Seized idler pulley or drum roller | Occasional | Drum stiff or will not turn by hand |
| Timer or control board fault | Uncommon | Everything else checks out |
When to call a professional
Call an electrician if the breaker trips repeatedly or you find any scorching at the plug or outlet. Call an appliance engineer for a broken belt, a failed door switch, a seized roller, or a motor that has genuinely failed — these all mean opening the cabinet around a mains supply that draws significant current, particularly on electric dryers.
Stop and call a qualified appliance technician or electrician if you find scorched or melted wiring, smell burning, see water that has reached electrical components, or if the fault returns immediately after a repair. Never bypass a safety device — thermal fuses, door interlocks and flood switches fail for a reason, and defeating one converts a broken appliance into a fire or flood risk.
