Kenmore does not manufacture its own washers — different model number prefixes are built by different companies (110 by Whirlpool, 417 by Frigidaire/Electrolux, 796 by LG), so the same-looking code can mean something completely different depending on your specific model. The codes below are documented for the common 110-prefix high-efficiency front-load platform, built by Whirlpool.
Why the model prefix matters
Before troubleshooting any Kenmore appliance by its error code, check the first three digits of the model number on the rating plate. This determines which manufacturer actually built the washer, and codes are not standardized across them — a code that means “door lock error” on one platform can be an entirely different fault, or not exist at all, on another. This article covers the 110-prefix platform specifically, which is Whirlpool-built and one of the most common.
| Code | What the documented 110-series list says it means |
|---|---|
| F/H | Not filling |
| F/02 | Drains slowly |
| F/05 | Water temperature sensor failure |
| F/06 | Motor tachometer failure |
| F/09 | Overflow |
| F/10 | Motor control board overheated |
| F/11 | Serial communication error between main control board and motor control board |
| F/13 | Dispenser circuit error |
| F/14 | Main control board EEPROM error |
| F/15 | Motor control board error |
| Sud | Excessive suds detected |
| F/dL | Door lock error |
| F/dU | Door unlock error |
F/H: Not filling
Check that both hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer are fully open first — a surprisingly common cause, especially after any plumbing work nearby. In winter, check the fill lines for freezing, and check the drain system for a siphon problem that could be preventing water from building up in the tub.
F/02 / F/09: Draining and overflow
F/02 (drains slowly) is frequently caused by excessive suds — the washer genuinely cannot drain water that is too sudsy, so switching to the correct amount of HE detergent is worth checking before assuming a pump fault. F/09 (overflow) triggers the drain pump to run constantly trying to clear the excess water; if the washer is overfilled, check the water inlet valve for a stuck-open fault, and if the washer is actually empty when this code appears, the water-level pressure switch itself is the more likely culprit.
F/06, F/10, F/11, F/14, F/15: Control and motor board faults
- Unplug the washer before inspecting anything
All of these codes involve checking wiring harness connections between the main control board, the motor control board, and the drive motor.
- Check for loose or damaged wiring first
A significant share of these codes trace back to a connection issue rather than an outright failed board — cheaper and faster to rule out first.
- F/14 specifically: try a full power cycle first
This one is documented as a corrupted EEPROM — unplugging for 5 minutes and restoring power can sometimes clear it before board replacement is needed.
F/dL / F/dU: Door lock codes
F/dL means the door cannot lock, and F/dU means the opposite — the washer will not unlock. Both point to the same component: check the door lock assembly for physical damage or a loose wiring connection before assuming the whole assembly needs replacing.
When to call a technician
Any of the motor control board or main control board codes (F/06, F/10, F/11, F/14, F/15) that persist after confirming wiring connections are sound point to an actual board failure — not something to keep resetting repeatedly.
Stop and call a qualified appliance technician or electrician if you find scorched or melted wiring, smell burning, see water that has reached electrical components, or if the fault returns immediately after a repair. Never bypass a safety device — thermal fuses, door interlocks and flood switches fail for a reason, and defeating one converts a broken appliance into a fire or flood risk.
