LC means the leak sensor at the bottom of the dishwasher has detected water or dampness in the base pan. It can mean a genuine leak from a spray arm, seal, inlet valve or pump — or it can be a false alarm from a base pan that is simply damp. Drying the pan and watching for the fault to return tells you which.
What LC means
A sensor sits in the base pan under the tub and reports any water or persistent moisture it detects. The dishwasher stops rather than run a cycle with water somewhere it should not be — which is the right response, but it means the code fires just as readily for lingering dampness as for a genuine leak.
Common causes
| Cause | How likely | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Damp base pan with no active leak | Common | No visible water source; pan simply has not fully dried after a wash |
| Defective spray arm seal | Common | Water tracking to the base during the wash phase |
| Worn door or tub seal | Common | Water at the front of the machine |
| Faulty water inlet valve | Occasional | Slow drip contributing to base moisture over time |
| Pump seal or connection issue | Occasional | Dampness appearing during drain rather than wash |
| Corroded or failing leak sensor | Less common | LC persists on a genuinely dry, leak-free base |
How to fix it
- Check the floor and cabinet around the machine
Look for any obvious sign of water outside the dishwasher first.
- Remove and dry the bottom pan
Take out the pan if your model allows it and inspect for excess moisture or dampness, then dry it fully — towels or a fan overnight work well.
- Reset the unit
Unplug the dishwasher for about 15 minutes. This clears the code and lets you test with a genuinely dry base.
- Run a cycle and watch
Start a normal cycle and check the base periodically. If LC returns and you can see water, you have an active leak to trace to its source; if the base stays dry and LC does not return, it was likely a lingering-moisture false alarm.
When to call a professional
If LC returns with visible water in the base, have a technician check the spray arm seals, the door/tub seal, the inlet valve and the pump connections to find the actual leak before running the machine again.
Stop and call a qualified appliance technician or electrician if you find scorched or melted wiring, smell burning, see water that has reached electrical components, or if the fault returns immediately after a repair. Never bypass a safety device — thermal fuses, door interlocks and flood switches fail for a reason, and defeating one converts a broken appliance into a fire or flood risk.