When a well system stops delivering water, check the power first — the well’s dedicated breaker and any switch near the pressure tank — then the pressure switch, which tells the pump when to run. A failed pressure switch is one of the most common causes of a pump that will not start; a waterlogged pressure tank can make a healthy pump cycle too often and overheat.
Safety first
Switch off the well pump’s breaker before removing any cover from the pressure switch or wiring. If you are not experienced with line-voltage wiring, stop at the non-invasive checks below and call a well-pump professional.
Check power at the breaker and switch
- Check the well switch near the pressure tank
Some systems have a dedicated on/off switch that may have been turned off.
- Check the pump’s double-pole breaker
Well pumps typically run on a dedicated double-pole breaker; if it has tripped, reset it fully off then on.
- Note if it trips again
A breaker that trips repeatedly points to an electrical or motor problem, not a nuisance trip.
The pressure switch
The pressure switch senses when pressure in the tank has dropped and powers the pump to refill it. If the switch fails, the pump will not start and the taps run dry. Contacts can also become dirty or burned, causing intermittent starts. Replacing a failed switch is a documented repair, but it involves wiring, so unless you are comfortable working safely with it, hire a professional.
The pressure tank
| Symptom | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Pump turns on and off very frequently | Waterlogged tank or low air pre-charge |
| Pressure swings sharply between cycles | Tank bladder or air charge problem |
| Pump overheating or tripping its breaker | Short cycling from a failing tank |
The pressure tank holds a reserve of water and air so the pump does not have to run every time a tap opens. Its air pre-charge should sit roughly 2 PSI below the pump’s cut-in pressure — a tank that has lost its air or ruptured its bladder forces the pump to cycle constantly.
Pump runs but no water
If you hear the pump running but little or no water reaches the house, the cause may be a leak in the line, a clogged intake or screen, a falling well water level, or a worn pump. Do not let a pump run dry for long — it can overheat and burn out.
Short cycling
A pump that clicks on and off every few seconds is wearing out its motor and contacts quickly. Shut it off at the breaker and have the tank and switch checked rather than letting it keep cycling.
When to call a well-pump professional
A confirmed failed pump, a motor that will not start with a good switch, a suspected falling water table, or any submersible-pump work down the well all call for a licensed well contractor. For related symptoms elsewhere in the house, see our whole-house low pressure guide.
