The Whirlpool dryer codes you will see most are AF (or “Check Vent”), a restricted airflow warning you can fix by cleaning the lint screen and vent; L2, low or no line voltage; and F-codes such as F01, F1 E1, F2 E1, F3 E1 and F6 E1, which relate to the control, keypad, thermistor and communication. Whirlpool’s fix for most F-codes is simple: turn off the breaker for one to five minutes, restore power and run a timed dry cycle. Loc and PF are not faults.
The codes Whirlpool documents
| Code | What Whirlpool says | First action |
|---|---|---|
| AF or “Check Vent” (F30) | Restricted air flow: lint screen or vent clogged, vent crushed, kinked or with too many turns | Clean the lint screen and the vent run |
| L2 (F31) | Low or no line voltage; may stop the heater turning on | Check for tripped breaker or blown fuses; reset the breaker for one minute |
| F01 | Control board fault | Breaker off for 5 minutes, then run a timed dry cycle |
| F1 E1 | Control board or communication issue | Breaker off for 5 minutes, then run a timed dry cycle |
| F2 E1 | Keypad issue | Power off for one minute, restore, run a timed dry cycle |
| F3 E1 | Exhaust thermistor | Power off for one minute, restore, run a timed dry cycle |
| F6 E1 | Communication error: main control, touchpad or wiring | Power off for one minute, restore, run a timed dry cycle |
| Loc | Control lock is on; dryer will not start | Turn off the lock (see your manual) |
| PF | Power failure interrupted the cycle | Restart the cycle |
Whirlpool’s dryer code index also lists other codes (for example E1 to E3 and several more F-codes), but their meanings sit on separate pages that we could not read in full, so this guide only covers the codes above.
AF and F30: Restricted airflow
- Clean the lint screen
Pull it out and wash off any film of fabric softener residue with warm soapy water, then let it dry.
- Check the vent run
Pull the dryer out and look for a crushed or kinked hose, then check the exterior hood opens freely and is free of lint.
- Clean the full duct
Our vent cleaning guide covers the whole run, and dryer takes too long to dry explains related symptoms.
L2 and F31: Low or no line voltage
A dryer needs two legs of 120 volts; if one is lost, the drum can spin but there is no heat. Check the dryer’s double breaker (one half may have tripped) and any fuses. If the breaker keeps tripping, see why a breaker keeps tripping, and call an electrician rather than reset repeatedly. Many dryer heating problems are covered in dryer not heating.
F01, F1 E1, F2 E1, F3 E1, F6 E1
These point to the control board, keypad, exhaust thermistor and the wiring between them. Whirlpool’s steps for each are a power reset (breaker off for one to five minutes) and a timed dry cycle as a test. Our Whirlpool F01 guide goes into the control-board fault. A thermistor code can follow overheating from a blocked vent, so clean the vent first. See dryer gets too hot.
Loc and PF: Not faults
Loc means the control lock is on, and the dryer will not start until it is turned off; the method varies by model, so check the manual. PF only means a power failure interrupted the cycle: restart it. If the dryer will not start for other reasons, see dryer not working: complete troubleshooting guide.
Whirlpool’s reset routine
- Turn off the dryer’s circuit breaker
Leave it off for one minute (five for F01 and F1 E1).
- Restore power
Make sure the door is closed and the lint screen is in place.
- Run a timed dry cycle
If the code returns immediately, it is a real fault.
When to call for service
A thermistor, keypad, control or communication code that comes back after a reset needs a technician. Compare the likely cost with replacement in our dryer repair cost guide.
