On GE dishwashers with a digital display, C1 through C3 all relate to drainage — too slow, too long, or not draining at all — while C6 and C7 point to water temperature problems and C8 means the detergent cup is physically blocked from opening. GE’s own support documentation notes not every code appears on every model, and older non-digital-display GE dishwashers use an entirely different blink-count system instead.
Digital display vs. older blink-code models
GE dishwashers without a digital display report faults with a flashing status light instead — counted blinks, not letters and numbers. On that older system, a code labeled “C1” means something different (a stuck control panel key) than the C1 covered below, which applies to digital-display models. If your dishwasher has no digital screen, see our GE Dishwasher C1 blink-code guide instead.
The documented digital-display code list
| Code | What GE’s official support documentation says it means |
|---|---|
| Number + H (e.g. 1H) | The dishwasher is in Delay Start mode |
| C1 | Pump-out during drain has exceeded 2 minutes |
| C2 | Total pump-out cycle exceeds 7 minutes |
| C3 | The dishwasher will not drain |
| C4 | Machine filled twice after a power failure — float switch stuck/failed, or clogged drain/sump |
| C5 | Pump-out time is too short |
| C6 | Water temperature is too low |
| C7 | Water temperature sensor circuit has become inoperative |
| C8 | The detergent cup is blocked from opening fully |
| PF | A power failure occurred to the dishwasher |
| Cup Open | The detergent cup has not been closed — a reminder to add detergent and latch it |
| FTD or F56 | Failure to drain |
| LEAK DETECTED | A possible leak has been detected |
| 999 | Possible leak detected (models with Floor Protect with Alert), or the control needs to be reset |
| H2O | A low water situation |
| PrS | The pressure sensor is sending an invalid signal to the control |
C1 / C2 / C3: Drainage-related codes
- Check for a clogged drain or sump first
All three codes ultimately relate to water not leaving the tub within expected time windows — a blockage is the most common cause across all three.
- Check the drain hose and air gap (if present)
A kink in the drain hose or a clogged air gap fitting under the sink restricts drainage the same way an internal clog does.
- See our dishwasher filter guide
A clogged internal filter is one of the most common, easiest-to-fix causes of slow or incomplete draining — see our dishwasher filter cleaning guide.
C4: Refilled after power failure
This specific code appears when the machine filled with water twice following a power interruption — GE’s documentation points to a stuck or failed float switch, or a clogged drain/sump, as the underlying cause rather than the power failure itself being the fault.
C6 / C7: Water temperature codes
C6 (water too low) and C7 (temperature sensor circuit inoperative) both relate to water heating rather than drainage. Check your home’s water heater setting and confirm hot water is reaching the dishwasher at a reasonable temperature before assuming an internal sensor fault for C6; C7 points more directly at the sensor circuit itself.
Cup Open, LEAK DETECTED, 999, H2O, PrS
“Cup Open” is not a fault at all — it is a reminder that the detergent cup was not closed and latched. LEAK DETECTED and 999 (on models with Floor Protect with Alert) both relate to GE’s leak-detection safety feature; H2O signals a low water condition, and PrS means the pressure sensor itself is sending the control an invalid reading.
When to call for service
GE’s own documentation notes that disconnecting power to the dishwasher for a minute or two clears many of these codes. If the code returns after that reset, GE’s guidance is that service is likely required — most fault codes beyond a simple drain clog point to a part that needs a technician’s diagnosis.
