Maytag dishwashers report faults as two-part codes in the format FxEx, shown on digital display models directly and as a counted blink sequence on LED-only models (first blink set is the F number, pause, second set is the E number). Each combination maps to a specific system — control communication, a stuck key, water fill, or heating.
Common Maytag dishwasher codes
| Code | What it means |
|---|---|
| F0E1 | Control communication loss |
| F2E2 | Stuck key on the control panel |
| F3E1 | Water-temperature sensor fault |
| F5E1 | Door interlock fault |
| F6E1 | No water detected |
| F6E2 | Water inlet valve stuck open |
| F7E1 | Flow meter fault |
| F8E1 | Heater fault — not heating |
| F8E4 | Heater relay stuck |
| F9E1 | Diverter motor fault |
How to read blink-only codes
On models without a digital display, count the light blinks: the first counted sequence is the F number, then a pause, then the second sequence is the E number — for example, six blinks, a pause, then one blink means F6E1.
What you can check
- Power cycle for F0E1
A control communication loss can sometimes clear with a full power reset — turn off at the breaker for a minute, then restore.
- Check for a physically stuck key for F2E2
Inspect the control panel for a button that feels jammed or unresponsive.
- Check the water supply for F6E1
Confirm the water supply valve under the sink feeding the dishwasher is fully open before assuming an internal fault.
- For F6E2, watch for continuous filling
A water inlet valve stuck open can cause the machine to keep filling — if you notice this, shut off the water supply to the dishwasher and stop the cycle to prevent an overflow while you arrange service.
If the inlet valve is genuinely stuck open, water will keep entering the machine. Shut off the water supply valve under the sink rather than leaving the dishwasher running while you wait for service.
When to call a technician
F3E1, F6E2, F7E1, F8E1, F8E4 and F9E1 all point to specific internal components (sensors, valves, the heater circuit, or the diverter motor) that need professional testing and, typically, replacement. F0E1 and F2E2 are worth a power cycle and a panel check first.
Stop and call a qualified appliance technician or electrician if you find scorched or melted wiring, smell burning, see water that has reached electrical components, or if the fault returns immediately after a repair. Never bypass a safety device — thermal fuses, door interlocks and flood switches fail for a reason, and defeating one converts a broken appliance into a fire or flood risk.
