Oven repairs cluster fairly predictably by part — a heating element or an igniter is a routine, inexpensive fix, while a control board or a self-clean door lock motor is a more expensive repair that can approach the point where replacement makes more sense. The type of oven (electric, gas, or a dual-fuel range) also changes which faults are common.
Typical repair cost by fault
| Common fault | Relative cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Miscalibrated temperature (no parts needed) | Free (DIY) | Many ovens have a user-accessible calibration offset — see our temperature accuracy guide |
| Oven light or bulb | Free–low (DIY) | Almost always a simple swap |
| Bake or broil igniter (gas models) | Low–moderate | One of the most common gas oven repairs |
| Bake or broil heating element (electric models) | Low–moderate | A frequently replaced, well-documented part |
| Temperature sensor (probe) | Low–moderate | Common cause of consistently wrong temperatures |
| Door seal/gasket | Low | Wears over years of use, affects heat retention and even cooking |
| Door lock motor or switch (self-clean models) | Moderate–high | Self-clean cycles lock the door, and this mechanism can fail |
| Main control board | Moderate–high | Cost varies significantly by brand and model availability |
What changes the price
- Gas vs electric vs dual-fuel. Gas components (igniters, valves) and electric components (elements, relays) are different repair categories, and dual-fuel ranges can need either.
- Built-in wall ovens vs range ovens. Built-in units can involve more labour to access and remove for certain repairs.
- Self-clean feature. Ovens with a locking self-clean cycle have an extra mechanism (the door lock) that simpler ovens do not, which is one more thing that can fail.
- Confirmed diagnosis before the visit. Knowing whether the fault is heat, ignition, temperature accuracy, or the door lock lets a technician bring the right part on the first visit.
When the cost points to replacement instead
Our guide on appliance lifespans and when repair stops making sense covers the general rule of thumb — repair if the cost is under roughly half the price of a new equivalent and the oven is under half its expected lifespan (ovens typically run 13–15 years). A control board replacement on an oven already well past that point is usually where replacement wins.
What you can rule out yourself first
If temperatures seem off, check our oven temperature accuracy guide before assuming a part has failed — many ovens can be recalibrated with no parts needed. If the self-clean cycle will not start or the door will not unlock, see our self-clean troubleshooting guide first.
